Archive for November 27th, 2009

Israeli border police officers who were filmed apparently abusing Palestinian civilians will not face charges, an Israeli state prosecutor has ruled.
An appeal calling for an investigation was rejected and the police’s actions dismissed as “only light blows”, said human rights group, Yesh Din.
The three videos show Palestinian civilians being struck, grabbed and humiliated by uniformed officers.
The incident allegedly took place in East Jerusalem in 2008.
Israeli police have refused to comment on the ruling.
The Yesh Din group was set up in 2006 to provide legal assistance to Palestinians in the occupied territories.
It described the ruling a shocking decision:
“This shows a reality where soldiers feel that it is permissible to harass and beat civilians. Criminal law forbids assault.
“It is a wrong and dangerous wink of consent.”
The group quoted Israeli Deputy State Prosecutor Shai Nitzan as justifying the officers’ actions within the law: “They were light blows that do not cause real damage, are not illegal.”
It is not clear how the footage was made public, but reports suggest it was recorded on a mobile phone that was then lost.
In one of the videos, an Israeli officer is seen hitting a young Palestinian man, then striking him on the back of the neck – an action that is culturally an insult.
The officer then dishevels the man’s clothes and knees him in the backside.
In another video, a Palestinian is made to salute the officer before being released.
The Israeli Department for the Investigation of Police Officers had announced in January 2009 that it was not going to seek prosecution against the officers. The latest ruling was a rejection of Yesh Din’s appeal against that decision.
The human rights group said it would consider further legal means to challenge the decision.

Recent years have seen the re-emergence of the hardline Islamic Taliban movement as a fighting force in Afghanistan and a major threat to its government.
They are also threatening to destabilise Pakistan, where they control areas in the north-west and are blamed for a wave of suicide bombings and other attacks.
The Taliban emerged in the early 1990s in northern Pakistan following the withdrawal of Soviet troops from Afghanistan.
A predominantly Pashtun movement, the Taliban came to prominence in Afghanistan in the autumn of 1994.
It is commonly believed that they first appeared in religious seminaries – mostly paid for by money from Saudi Arabia – which preached a hard line form of Sunni Islam.
The Taliban’s promise – in Pashtun areas straddling Pakistan and Afghanistan – was to restore peace and security and enforce their own austere version of Sharia, or Islamic law, once in power.
In both countries they introduced or supported Islamic punishments – such as public executions of convicted murderers and adulterers and amputations of those found guilty of theft.
Men were required to grow beards and women had to wear the all-covering burka.
Pakistan has repeatedly denied that it is the architect of the Taliban enterprise.
But there is little doubt that many Afghans who initially joined the movement were educated in madrassas (religious schools) in Pakistan.
Pakistan was also one of only three countries, along with Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates (UAE), which recognised the Taliban when they were in power in Afghanistan from the mid-1990s until 2001.
It was also the last country to break diplomatic ties with the Taliban.
But Pakistan has since adopted a harder line against Taliban militants carrying out attacks on its soil.
The attention of the world was drawn to the Taliban in Afghanistan following the attacks on the World Trade Centre in September 2001.

The Liberty Nickel series makes a challenging, yet very doable, series to complete. The Liberty Nickel, commonly known as the “V” nickel for the Roman Numeral “V” on
the reverse was officially produced from 1883 to 1912.

Before you embark on your mission of completing a set of this series, you must first decide what type of collection you want to assemble and what your budget will be.
For example, a complete collection of all coins from 1883 to 1912 (33 coins) retails for around $1000.00 in G4 condition. Up the condition to XF-40 and expect to pay
over $4500. Up the collection to MS60 and the retail price is nearly $8,500. If you just want the best quality, then look for MS65 which would retail for $62,000. That
is quite a range. While it is unlikely that your set will contain each coin in the exact same grade, this does give you an example of how much increasing the quality
can cost. In the XF-40 range, 4 or 5 of the coins will set you back $100 while the majority of the coins can be had for under $30.00. If budget is an issue, you could
collect the majority of the more common coins in a higher grade and acquire the keys in a lower grade and then upgrade as your budget allows.

You could also attempt to put together a collection of just proof coins. This set would consist of 31 coins and would retail for about $20,000 in MS65 condition.
Collecting proofs in the Liberty Nickel series can be tough yet rewarding. Proofs were minted for every year of existence for the “V” nickel. Proofs in PR65 condition
can run in the $500 plus range for most years with the 1885 running upwards of $1500. Production usually numbered in the thousands for each year, which was an
unusually high number for the period.

For this article, we will assume you have a tight budget and like most collectors you will need to sacrifice quality for the pricier coins. So, how do you get started?
The easiest and fastest way is to start with the common dates. This can give you some instant satisfaction that you are on your way. Within the Liberty Nickel series,
the dates from 1897 to 1912-D can be had for around $2.00 or less in G4 but will cost $30.00 a piece in the XF-40 range. If you are after the low cost coins simply
buying a roll of nickels will most likely yield all but a few dates from 1897 to 1912-D thus lowering your price per coin with a few left over. You can also find deals
such as Starter Sets that will include a certain number of different coins. These will commonly be in AG-3 to VG-8 grades. Beyond this, it is unlikely you will find
unsearched hoards so you will need to buy coins outside of this range individually.

In order to complete the series, three coins may give you trouble. The 1885, 1886 and 1912 S are the lowest mintage. The 1885 had a mintage of over 1.5 million but
will still set you back at least $500 in a grade around G4. The 1886 had a mintage of 3.3 million and will cost around $250 in a G4 grade. The 1912-S specimen had the
lowest mintage by far of just 238,000. As this was the first Liberty Nickel from San Francisco, as well as the last of the series, it was probably saved a little bit
more than the older issues as it may have been recognized for its low mintage. Even with a mintage of just 1/6 of the most expensive 1885 piece, the 1912-S can be had
for around $150 around a G4 grade.

Finding these tougher dates may prove to be somewhat challenging depending where you look. Surprisingly, there are very few dealers advertising Liberty Nickels in
national publications such as Coins Magazine. Those that I did find were asking above retail for 1885 and 1886 type coins. A quick search on the internet did yield
several dealers that had the scarcest dates in stock. Yet again, they were asking above retail for the scarcest dates. I suspect if I walked into my local coin dealer,
s/he would also be asking above retail for the 1885 and 1886 issue. So what does that leave you? If you are a gambler, there is always eBay. A quick search of eBay
yield several 1885 specimens to choose from. Please see my article on eBay buying tips if you are an eBay novice to prevent getting ripped off. While the coins on eBay
are typically overgraded, you can still get what you want if you are careful.

Collecting Liberty V Nickels can be a truly rewarding experience. In just a few short years, every coin in this series will be at least 100 years old bring extra
pleasure to the collector knowing that s/he has something that is a small part of history of the United States of America.

Happy Collecting!

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The meaning of the word photography is a Greek word that means “light writing” or literally – writing with light. Photographers play with light more than anything, along with focus and total composition – the three key features of all memorable photographs. We, as photographers, attempt to control, manipulate, and exploit light. Why? All photographs depend on light more than anything, further enhanced by focus and compositional aspects.

The best source of natural light is the sun, but it is best to avoid taking pictures at noon, when the sun is at its zenith. It throws very short shadows and produces an intense, white light that is not good for taking pictures. The best light is when the sun is lower on the horizon – either in the morning or in the evening. During these hours, light has a soft golden red hue that adds to the colors in the picture. Some photographers suggest taking landscape or outdoor pictures two hours before sunset or two hours after sunrise.

The availability of light becomes even more critical in indoor photography. One way to overcome the scantiness of light is to use a flash. The other is to go for a longer exposure so that the sensor is sufficiently charged. However, when doing so you should use a tripod as it takes away the possibility of the unsteadiness.

Technically, focus is also called an “image point” or “focusing point.” The word focus means “fire” or “furnace” in Latin – as a black sheet of paper will burn if sunlight is collected, or focused, in one spot. The image is said to be in focus if the light from object points converge ABOUT as well as IN the image – therefore it is out of focus it the light is not well converged. The “circle of confusion” criterion is the border between these conditions. All of this comes together to make the photograph or picture appeal sharp.

Measuring the distance from the main subject of the photo, and then adjusting the len’s focus ring to the appropriate number can set a focus. To shoot the subject at infinity distance, the distance needs to be made between the lens and the film equal to the focal length. What it all boils down to it this – simply changing the distance between the lens and the film. When done, the position of the plane with sharp focus will become altered.

Some of the points that you need to keep in mind while fixing focus are that a small aperture will produce a wider depth of field, which is most suited for landscapes. To narrow the size of the aperture you need to increase the f-stop settings. Also, for portraits or single subjects you need wide aperture. This will reduce the depth of field and the focus will be sharper.

Finally, yet importantly is composition – the ability to make some photographs more appealing than others. How it is done depends a lot on the photographer, and the method chosen. Sometimes a photograph can be put together by the placement of certain objects and they are positioned. Others, shifting the camera until the composition is changed slightly, can also use the point of view; the center of interest should be the most visually appealing.

The other areas of the picture are important also, as they need to complement this center of interest. However, these centers are static unless they are off-center subject placement. Experiment with several pictures, choosing several different positions. Questions need to be asked, such as how much of the subject should be chosen – the whole body, parts of the body, or a close up of a certain aspect. Should it be framed horizontally or vertically? Geometric shapes can be used to help the picture composition. Use triangles, or thirds, to add a strong sense of unity to the photograph.

Composition helps you frame the photograph by removing the extraneous elements from the scene. You can place the subject in the middle of the frame, along the diagonal or in the corner. You can use light falling through a window to make the frame or use a car’s rearview mirror to frame the subject.

Your effort should be to get as many different angles of your subject, and then select one that focuses best on the subject. Remember, the best-composed photograph is that which draws your attention immediately to the subject.

Once you have mastered these three — light, composition, and focus – you can safely say that you have become a good photographer. The character and quality of them can alter all photographs – bringing out the best detail and tonal shading – and are considered the most critical element in photography.